Editing WIP (section)

==Modeling==
Below is a short summary of advice usually given in WIP threads. See also : [[Guide_to_Assembling_Models|Guide to assembling models]]

===Supplies===

[[File:Sprue Cutters.png|thumb|200px|Metal sprue cutters (top), plastic sprue cutters (middle), and the way to cut from parts trees (bottom)]]

Generally speaking, a hobbyist interested in miniatures needs the following supplies: 
* sprue cutters / hobby knife, 
* glue,
* small paintbrushes, 
* a mixing palette with wells, 
* [[Paint| paints]], including [[WIP#Priming|primer]]. 
Further supplies advanced hobbyists find useful are sandpaper and/or metal files, a supply of [[Green Stuff|kneadite or greenstuff]], a magnifying glass or a crocodile-clip magnifier, and podcasts or music to set the mood or entertain the models being worked on. 

Sprue cutters come in two variants; metal and plastic. Metal cutters have less precision but wear out much slower, and are designed for the extreme pressure needed to cut through both metal and thick pieces of resin. Plastic cutters are more precise, but may break or bend if trying to clip anything larger than a thing piece of a parts tree. Another option is wirecutters from the hardware store. Always orient the flat part of the blades of the sprue cutters towards the model, as cutting with the slanted side will leave remaining parts of the sprue and may damage part of the model. 

It is important to remember that the company which produced the supplies does not matter; a hobby knife from Revell is the same as a hobby knife from [[Privateer Press]] as a hobby knife from [[The Army Painter]] or a hobby knife from Games Workshop, or a hobby knife from the dollar store, for that matter. What DOES matter is that model paint stereotypically associated with Revell-style hard plastic models (enamel) is different from the paints usually used for softer plastic miniatures (acrylic). For more on this, [[WIP#Painting|see the Paint section]]. 

Likewise, paint is virtually identical regardless of [[WIP#Paint_Companies|manufacturer]]. Some companies have tones that others don't have, but if you're mixing paint then [[Vallejo]] is [[Citadel_Miniatures#Paints|Citadel]] is Reaper MSP is whatever else on the market. Some people have said they prefer the thickness of one company, some say the only difference is how long its been on the shelf, but the topic is not considered hot enough to be fairly called [[Skub]]. [[The Army Painter|Army Painter]] however can end up being sub-par with no way to tell beforehand whether your paint is supposed to be base (good, opaque cover) or layer (somewhat translucent), prone to undergo phase separation and having a strange, mucky consistency.  
The positive exception is the [[WIP#Technical|Citadel "Technical" paint range]]. Few other companies produce things like blood, rust, brush-on snow, or paints that dry and crack as they dry to produce an effect like mud or dirt, and no other company has the variety of effects. Even the most ardent opponent to buying from Games Workshop will [[Dwarfs (Warhammer Fantasy)|grudgingly]] admit that Citadel Technical is a great range. Luke's APS of YouTube fame has some nice tutorials on how to make substitutes for those at home though. Life Color and [[Vallejo]] also both produce environmental paints like mosses and lichen that Games Workshop does not offer. For more on this, [[WIP#Paint_Companies|see the Paint Companies section below]]. 

Container can also make a difference; some cheaper paints may come in containers which are of low quality and let in air despite the paint itself being the same. If you happen to use up paints which come in containers you like, consider saving some to transfer paint from bad containers to (or to mix up a large batch of a custom color you use in bulk). Many have complained of the degradation of quality in Citadel paint pots over the years, as those are designed to leave a little gap when closed without the application of brute force, letting in air and accumulating paint, that prevents the pot from getting properly closed next time. 

Sprays (rattle cans) also differ far more from company to company. Its important to remember that spray does not immediately mean [[WIP#Priming|primer]]. Primer coats the model in a base color, which will enhance following layers and make them stick to the model better. Spray gives you a basic color and goes on after the primer, representing either a basic color of the model you can work off of to save time or as a color to easily build up to the desired finished color from. Check the [[WIP#Priming|priming section for more info]].

<gallery>
Image:Citadel Paint Pots.jpg|Citadel has gotten progressively worse over the years.
Image:Other Paints.jpg|Reaper MSP and Vallejo paints with a cameo from P3.  
Image:Army Painter Paints.jpg|The Army Painter paints. 
Image:Can Spray.PNG
</gallery>

=== Cleaning models and removing moldlines ===
[[file:Flash And Mold Line Removal.jpg|Removal of mold lines and [[flash]]|right|thumb|300px]]
[[file:Mold Line Paint.jpg|This is why you need to remove mold lines. Your model will NOT look good with this, no matter how good a painter you are.|left|thumb|250px]]
While all models should be rinsed in soapy water and allowed to dry after assembly and before painting, this step also refers to removing the imperfections of a model caused by the casting process and the removal of the model from part trees. It is the first, and surprisingly often skipped even by "pro painters", step in doing a model. 

When plastic is molded, a greasy product called "mold release agent" is sprayed on the molds so plastic does not stick to it, akin to oil on a pan when cooking food. This product remains on the sprue when boxed and shipped to stores, and hence needs to be removed so paint can stick to it. This is especially true for resin kits (like [[Forge World]]). After getting the sprues out of the box, get some lukewarm soapy water (dishwasher soap is preferred) in the sink and an old clean toothbrush: wash, scrub, and leave to dry. Water should not be too hot (especially with resin kits) as not to deform the plastic. 

If you are getting a resin model, [[Games Workshop]] released [https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Yb27jN5Z6vN9azwR.pdf a guide that retreads those steps and then some more]. 

Mold lines and the remainder of sprues (or "parts trees"), called "[[flash]]" by some (although the term sometimes is used to refer to chunks of the parts tree), are to be removed via scraping with a hobby knife, sandpaper, or files. All three are viable and come down to preference. What your desired result should be is anything you do not want on the final model to not be present, as the Wash step makes these details very visible, ruining otherwise perfect paintjobs. 

When choosing metal files, be sure to pick one with a diagonal pattern over a dotted one - the latter can wear out fast. Due to the importance of removing flash, very few ([https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jl9NszJDxt4| if any]) models should be painted on their sprues.

=== Assembly and gluing ===
The most straightforward part. Once [[WIP#Cleaning_Models| cleaned]] and clear of flash/mouldlines, assemble and glue the parts. Always "dry test" assembly of parts before gluing in case they don't fully align: file away uneven pieces if needed. You might read "no glue required" on boxes stated as "easy to build" (such as the Warhammer 40.000 "First Strike" starter set), but that just mean that models will stay upright and in one piece without it. Read the instructions to check pieces that need assembly **without glue**, such as rotatable turrets, mech arms or amovible parts - in other words, don't glue [[meme| all the things]]. 

Glues have a lot of names and qualities, but for most wargamers there's only two important types, '''Cyano Acetate Cement''' (CA glue) and '''Polystyrene Cement'''. (Plastic cement) 

==== Cyano Acetate ====
A cement, most people are familiar with versions of this substance as "super glue" or "c/krazy glue". Somewhere on the bottle will be the words "cyanoacrylate". It will result in glued elements that you can still split if you use a bit of violence if you need to disassemble the model in the future.

Works well on both metal and hard plastics, as well as resin, human skin and hair and...well, anything other than soft plastics. Having superglue debonder on hand is recommended as opposed to trying to tear something (like fingers) apart after a slight spill. 

* "Ultra-thin" is the general version a modeler of Warhammer or similar games is familiar with. Comes in small squeeze tubes. Dries extremely fast, within single digit seconds to minutes. Usually these fuckers will dry out, requiring you to use a sewing needle to keep the opening working which results in pressure so your first attempt to glue again will splat a large drop on your model and fingers. To avoid this, tap the bottle while pointing the top upwards to clear the glue out of the applicator, make sure the seal around where the lid goes is clear of glue, place the lid on tightly, keep them upright when not in use, and consider putting them in the fridge to prolong their lifespan and slow the drying of glue stuck in the applicator. 
* "Medium" is rarely seen, and comes similar to the Ultra-thin. This is the kind you'd get from a hardware store rather than a hobby shop. Usually comes in small metal tubes. 
* "Thick" is generally called "Gap Filler" and is used at it sounds. It comes in a variety of bottles by company. There is a short window of time between applying it and when it hardens too much to file away and make surfaces flush, so this tends to be a substance only for experienced modelers. Various Activator products are sold that will harden it faster, while Hardeners are sold to make it bond stronger.

==== Polystyrene Cement ====
Another cement. It will say "plastic solvent" or "Warning: solvent". This kind will melt plastics slightly, and is much more permanent. Should only be used for the harder plastics. 
Drying time varies by mixture. Precision is required for Polystyrene Cements since their nature to melt will result in ANY glue anywhere it shouldn't be leaving a nasty-looking mark that can be worse than any mold line. 

* "Thick Tube" versions, which as you may have guess come in a tube like toothpaste, are popular with scale modelers, and are what most people think of with Revell model kits. Thick Tube is the most powerful, and takes hours to even days to dry and can damage a model very badly if it gets anywhere but where you are applying two pieces together. 
* "Medium Viscous" come in bottles with extended applicators, and both dry faster and cause less damage if improperly handled. These are the most popular versions used today. 
* "Ultra-thin/Liquid Poly" come like paste, sitting in a wide bottle with a brush attached to the lid to use to apply with. The brushes can be cut to be thinner for more precision. Cause the least amount of melting, and dry almost instantly. The version stereotypically associated with [[Tamiya]] models.

==== Epoxy Resin ====
Also known as [[Green stuff]], marketing name is Kneadite Duro : consists of an adhesive and a hardener which are kept separate. Sometimes come in tubes, sometimes in a double syringe form. Must be mixed to be used. 
Different mixes produce different drying times, and the longer it takes to dry the stronger the bond. Note that something has to be held in place from hours to days for this to set up, meaning models should be taped or clamped depending on the size of the model. Keep your hands and sculpting tools wet with water or vaseline as it will stick to dry surfaces. Store in cold areas - Green Stuff World even recommends to keep it in your fridge.

After assembly, use it to fill in cracks and make the model look like it came in one piece. Once dry, green stuff can be filed away, primed and painted.

==== Clear/Canopy Glue ====
A weaker bond than the cements, but designed to work like them. The cements give off fumes which can <strike>[[Slaanesh|get you high]]</strike> give unwanted foggy effects to transparent glass elements like cockpit glass, so the Canopy Glues are a replacement that doesn't cause the same effect. Not very useful for anything else however. 

==== Gloss Varnish ====
Not really a glue, but it can be used as such. Used for holding softer parts to models, like small bits of cloth to Revell kits. Limited use for wargame modelers, who generally don't care if the pilot inside a cockpit looks like he's got real straps holding him into the seat. 

==== Clear Rubber/Silicone Cement ====
Domestic glues. Come in "All-purpose" and "Universal" varieties, with the former not being a solvent (read: won't melt parts of the model to make it stick). Their only real use is for softer plastics or things like cloth and rubber, meaning very little use for wargame modelers. 

When gluing metal models, use the cement glue and a small single layer of tissue paper between the two metal surfaces. This will make the glue stick.

==== White/Woodworkers Glue ====
That stuff you used to love peeling off things as a kid, that you used to make macaroni Valentines Day cards. Basically useless for modelers, although it can technically be used for scenery and basing. In particular clumping up cat litter with woodworkers' glue can make great rubble for scenery and terrain.

==== PVA Adhesive/Tacky Glue ====
Same as the White/Woodworking Glue, but a stronger bond. Basically the same thing, super watery becomes rubbery and transparent when it dries. 
A decent choice for terrain and basing effects. Pros will mix it with various substances to make their own basing paints like mud or snow effects.

===Priming===
Before any paint is applied, any hobbyist using acrylics should apply a layer of primer to their model (enamel can skip this step - see [[WIP#Painting| Painting section]]). Primer gives a base color which makes further layers more visible, and helps them stick to the model. Metal models should be washed with warm water and let dry prior to this step. Some models should be partially or fully assembled prior to priming - see the [[WIP#Assembly| Assembly section]]. 

There are two methods to priming; spray-on, and brush-on. Neither is actually better than the other, and comes down solely to preference of the hobbyist although spray can save time on large models, and with lots of small models that can be done at the same time. 
The color of the primer influences the base paint that will go over it: 
* black primer: the colors will have a more realistic look. Helps with the recesses, since they'll be already dark. 
* bright primer: the colors will have a more "comicbook/cartoony", flashier look. You'll need to do shadier recesses or the rims between two zones will stand out.
When the base colors are much lighter (bright yellow or white over black primer) or a different temperature (blue over blood red), using a black primer might take more layers for complete opacity. Same if you're planning to use inks or thin layers through an airbrush. If a model is predominantly a color (such as [[Ultramarines]], hence their "Ultrasmurfs" nickname), then using primer of that color can save time - see [[WIP#Spraying_the_base_color|spraying the base color]]. Some hobbyists prefer to start with dark colors first, and paint lighter in layers and do any Wash steps last, and thus prefer black primer. Some do the opposite with the Wash after the priming and base colors, and use white or a light gray. When deciding, it comes down to your plan for painting your model (you do have one, right?). 

Spray primer requires an area set aside for the spraying. Cardboard, not newspaper, should be placed well around the area to ensure you are not coloring the ground. Follow the directions on the can (usually to shake well, spray the cardboard until the color comes strong (this is not a waste, it is necessary), clean the nozzle, avoid open flame, not to hold the can between your legs and stab it with a knife on a drunken bet, and not to eat it. Also consider where you live - in high humidy, heat, or cold, having the paint dry before it hits the model or dry in clumps because it froze to itself in the air could cause problems. With proper precautions this can be avoided, but the added effort may not be worth it.

Remember, LESS IS BEST and hold the can further rather than closer to achieve the best results. You can easily spray too much primer causing a blocky resulting look due to thick paint gluing the cracks that makes your model look horrible, requiring you to spend time soaking the model in Simple Green and scrubbing it with a toothbrush or putting the models up for sale for someone cheap to deal with. Do not touch the model to turn it over for spraying the other side(s) until it is fully dried or you may end up with a fingerprint for heraldry. 
Brush-on primer is much less complicated. Simply [[WIP#Painting|follow the instructions for painting]], and cover the whole model. The rule of not touching the painted portion still applies.

==== Zenithal priming ====
The zenith is the highest point of the sun in the sky, usually at noon. Hence, zenithal priming aims to reproduce a light shining above the figure and shadows under it by using a dark primer all around, then a brighter priming on the surfaces at the top. You can see some pictures to get a general idea [https://www.actionfiguretoronto.com/2017/03/11/zenithal-priming/ here]. You can use a grey primer first then use a white one, or go hardcore and do three coats of black all around / grey on top and diagonal (think of clock hands between 10 and 2) / white on top (clock hands at noon, or at zenith). 

In any case, remember that it's the model and not the spray can / airbrush that needs to be moved! When painting the top, do not put your tool vertically over the figure or you'll risk disturbing the paint flow. Move your figure at an angle in front of your primer.