Editing WIP (section)

====Airbrushing====
While it may initially seem that airbrushing is some super expensive thing for pro painters, it surprisingly is quite cheap compared to most things in wargaming. 

A decent airbrush will set you back $40-100, and the various other supplies (discussed below) that you will need will cost you around another $40 or so. So...basically around the price of a Warhammer kit. In particular the [https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-MAS-KIT-VC16-B22-Compressor/dp/B00BF0MW9G|Master Airbrush MAS KIT-VC16-B22 Portable Mini Airbrush Air Compressor Kit] is a decent starter set for only $50 (do not use that airbrush holder on the compressor, it WILL just fall over). 

Actual airbrush use depends on style. It can be easily used to prime models if loaded with a primer, and makes a good middle ground between spray can primer (which can get thick and have issues depending on your climate) and brush-on primer (which takes more time to do). 
You can also accomplish fantastic lighting effects, such as a light caused by gunfire or a light source (imagine a Space Marine illuminated by the blast from his gun, or an adventurer illuminated by his torch). Transition effects on larger models like dragons, phoenixes, or giant spiders can be done in a way that is arguably far better than could otherwise be done. On smaller models you can use an airbrush to turn your small paint pot color into a spray color, as discussed above, so you can then get into detail work. You can also use a blade to cut designs out of paper to use as a stencil, providing you some do-it-yourself decal work that can produce anything from flame paint on a vehicle to Ork checkerboard patterns to scales on a dragon. 

Also, if you're fond of doing arts and crafts for the home you can use a modeling airbrush for just about anything small from holiday decorations (in particular Halloween headstones) to fingernails. Just as an added bonus. 

The following is what you need to know for an airbrush:

* They come in '''Gravity Feed''' and '''Bottom Feed''' variants. Bottom feed requires its own specific bottles, which are premixed although by saving a bottle you can make your own mixes; this isn't really for tabletop miniatures, and is more something for professional or industrial work unless you intend to paint a LOT of things on a ridiculous scale in the same basic colors. You're almost certainly going to want gravity feed, which has a cup at the top where you can pour your paint which is just the same acrylic (it isn't recommended to airbrush with enamel unless you're willing to go through the extended effort in cleanup to ensure it doesn't get gummed up) paint that you use for everything else. Gravity feed works exactly how it sounds, the paint in the cup feeds into the airbrush and is blown out as you press the button. Luckily for you, gravity feed is cheaper! 
[[File:Airbrush Types.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]
* Airbrush sizes for tabletop miniatures range from 0.3mm for detail work to 0.5mm for...well, much less detailed work. Luckily this is the cheap end of airbrush sizes, anything larger would increase the price by a fair amount. So lucky for you!

* You will need a proper cleaning substance to run through the airbrush between paint sessions. While some people use simple dishsoap, the [https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Airbrush-Cleaner-16-Oz/dp/B003TJA0S6|Iwata-Medea Airbrush Cleaner] is cheap at $9 and you don't have to worry about longterm buildup or residue. Its strongly recommended that you buy a pot to spray into, which can double as a holder. The [https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Cleaning-Palette-Filters/dp/B01M8NI5GA|Master Airbrush Deluxe Airbrush 3 in 1 Cleaning Pot with Holder] is another cheap option at $14, although the seller also offers a kit with cleaning tools; some people claim the tools are useful, others do not. Do some research to determine if you feel they are useful or not. You will want a station to actually spray your models, and at the highest price range you can buy a laboratory-style hood with a fan for $300...or you can just use a large cardboard box and a lamp. Since acrylic paint is not toxic you don't have to worry about fumes, so long as you aren't literally spraying towards your face. Likewise goggles are not really needed, unless you just feel like you want them. You will want to buy some gloves that offer dexterity, nitrile is recommended although if you have allergies, hate the texture, or want something more eco-friendly there's a world of alternatives. 
[[File:Airbrush Box.jpg|thumb|center|300px|Your workstation only has to be as complex as you need to see what you're doing, have enough room to work with, and not turn yourself and the room into a canvas.]]
* Once you get your airbrush, you need to get yourself into an area where you are unlikely to drop anything or have anything roll off and onto the floor, preferably using a large box of some kind, and learn about how your airbrush is put together. Look up the model on youtube for cleaning tutorials and reviews, study any instructions either included or on the website on how it is assembled. You're going to want to take it apart, '''VERY CAREFULLY''' and very slowly so you remember how everything went together, and put it back together while seeing how everything works. This is important because it will help you figure out how it is cleaned and will give you some working knowledge of how it operates. The most expensive part of most airbrushes is the inside needle, which is the part that not only can you quite easily stab yourself with (they are very sharp) but one drop and it will likely be destroyed; it is also most likely going to be the first piece to wear out and need to be replaced, although with good care their lifespan can last years and some people have managed to make do with their first for most of their modelling life. Much like a Marine knowing how to disassemble and clean their weapon (remember Forrest Gump?) you need familiarity in order to use the device properly. 
[[File:Airbrush Assembly.jpg|thumb|center|300px|"THIS IS MY AIRBRUSH. THERE ARE MANY LIKE IT, BUT THIS ONE IS MINE!"]]
* Remember to mount anything you want to airbrush on a wooden stick where it will later be glued (for example an arm should be attached at the shoulder where the blank spot will not be seen), use some kind of tweezers, or have other alternatives to simply touching the model with your hands at the ready. While you can technically airbrush while holding some larger things, it is extremely difficult to work on things like heads this way. 
[[File:Stick Elves.jpg|thumb|center|300px|Not pictured: painted fingers, because there are none.]]
* Before the first time you want to airbush, make sure you have some practice. Set up your station. Use a plastic dropper to put some paint into your pot if its gravity feed, making sure to water it down with another dropper to THIN YOUR PAINT like you would otherwise. On a piece of paper or the surface of your workbench, practice what is called the "dagger technique" where you begin spraying far away, then bring the airbrush closer as you spray sidways creating a line that begins fat and ends sharp. Then do that in reverse, starting with a sharp line and ending in a fat one. Practice trying to shade an area in gradual intensity, experiment spraying from different angles, and do a few designs like writing your name or playing tic tac toe. Then take your cleaning pot and spray out all the leftover paint, fill with cleaning solution and spray that out, then use a soft cloth to clean out the leftover paint. 
[[File:Dagger Airbrush.jpg|thumb|center|300px|The dagger technique teaches you how to be subtle. This is the difference between airbrushing your model and airbrushing your skateboard.]]
* Watch online guides and tutorial videos. There's a world of airbrushing techniques, but due to the nature of the way that the device works you want to know what you're doing before you try and do it unless you intend to experiment. If you discover something that there isn't a guide for, consider making your own to help out the modelling community.