Editing Guide to Assembling Models (section)

== Customization ==
Many experienced model-makers (not just tabletop wargamers) find building a generic model - exactly as it comes in the kit - rather unsatisfying.   If you feel the urge to spice up your models, make them stand out from the competition on the tabletop, or participate in the time-honored tradition of crafting [[Your Dudes]]: read on!

=== Kit-Bashing ===
Kit-bashing is simple, you use parts from a separate model kit to change the look of a model kit. can be done through one model manufacturer for example using parts from different GW kits to change one (using stormcast eternal bodies to give a knightly look to space marines) or separate manufactures like Wargames Atlantic or warlord games (e.g making your imperial guard force not entirely Cadian re-colours)

=== Modifying Existing Parts ===

=== 3rd Party Parts ===
Nobody in this hobby can be expected to be an expert sculptor, or a genius with the hobby knife.  If you want a model, or better yet ''every model'', in your army to have stand-out wargear, than you should consider buying bits from [[Model_Alternatives#Proxy_Companies|3rd party model makers]]!  Many businesses specialize in making body parts, weapons, and armor which are compatible with existing lines of wargaming models.  These products provide a different look for your models, one which may fit better with your army concept or '''a e s t h e t i c'''.  And these parts can often be bought in bulk, which means that you don't have to spend hours and hours sculpting the same part onto 20 different models!

This aspect of customization only requires slightly more skill than assembling models.  Why might swapping in 3rd party parts be a bit tougher than basic assembly?  Well... let's just say that not every alternate parts shop will have that patent-pending "Games Workshop Quality".  In fact, none of them will.  Most of these companies can only produce parts with "less-than-modern" QA standards, or worse.  They often cast parts in resin or pewter, which will carry fine details better but make such parts tougher to work with than, say, the modern lines of all-plastic Games Workshop models.  Expect to deal with flash, erratic sprue, and severe mould lines.  If you have experience making [[Forge_World#Company|Forge World]] models, play games from [[Privateer Press]], or are a [[Neckbeard|greybeard]] who made models for 4th Edition 40k or earlier, you can readily deal with the hiccups of 3rd party models just fine.

=== Green Stuff ===
An ascended slang term for a specific kind of two-part modeling putty, '''Green Stuff''' is a staple medium for the model-making hobby and industry.  Many a modeling noob have shied away from using the Stuff, possibly because of its free-form nature as a building material.  After all, how can ''you'' possibly make an entire model component that looks as good as Games Workshop's [[high-quality kits|Finecast]] and sculpts!?

Worry no more!  Using Green Stuff may appear intimidating if you only look at glamor shots of exceptional [[WIP]]s on forums or social media.  In reality, working with Green Stuff is accessible and enjoyable.  It's sort of like playing with Play-Doh, which is an activity that ''most'' 4chan users can do unsupervised.

The [[Green Stuff|Green Stuff page itself]] contains a more comprehensive use guide, but below is a brief explanation of the process by which one creates an object out of Green Stuff:
# Acquire some Green Stuff.  This guide assumes you have your hands on a bifurcated strip of Green Stuff, sandwiched between two plastic films, such as what Games Workshop sells in their stores.  Also get some sculpting tools, since fingers are big meaty things that leave fingerprints.
# Cut off an equal portion of both halves of the strip.  Cut perpendicularly to the meeting line formed by the two putties (this may leave you with slightly less blue portion, that's OK).  Leave behind the area where the two putties touch (it will be somewhat harder/firmer than either half).  That portion has already activated, and will not activate or sculpt well.
# Wet your hands slightly, and knead the two halves together.  When properly mixed together, they become a single consistent mass of dark green sticky clay.  You do not want streaks of blue or lighter green, or any noticeable "chunks".  The water on your hands will keep the activated clay from sticking to your hands, and will slow the hardening process.
# Portion the Green Stuff into the rough size and shape you want.  Over time you will get a feel for how much Green Stuff you need to make certain parts of a certain size or volume.  Aire on the side of "More is Better", since you can often remove excess before applying the clay to the model.  That said, you can add more Green Stuff on later, to create additional details.
# Shape the Green Stuff ''off of the model''.  Make the rough size and shape of your Green Stuff object at this stage.  This process takes many forms, here are some examples:
#* Rolling a chunk of Green Stuff between your palms to create a round cylindrical shape (''Becomes:'' curved pipe, tentacles, sinew, wire, twine).
#* Flattening a chunk of Green Stuff into a sheet against a flat work surface (hopefully on some wax paper) using a small cylinder; then cut shapes out of the sheet using a hobby knife (''Becomes:'' cape, loincloth, robes, tarp, banner).
#* Repeatedly squashing a chunk of Green Stuff against a flat work surface at 90-degree angles, until the chunk becomes a rectangular prism (''Becomes:'' brick, concrete chunk, machine case, [[mysterious power cube|cubes]]).
#* Creating a section of Green Stuff, waiting a few minutes for the stuff to partially dry, and then using a hobby knife to slice a flat puck out of the section (''Becomes:'' medallion, coin, applique armor, nameplate).
#* Rolling a flat sheet of green stuff, then cutting it into long strips (''Becomes:'' straps, belts, scarves, decorative wall moulding).
# Shape the Green Stuff ''on the model''.  With your undetailed green stuff now on the model, you can finally work out those details.  Press the Green Stuff firmly to the model, taking care not to make too much of an impression on the surface while still getting as much Stuff-to-Model contact as you can manage.  Then pose fluttering capes, wrap belts around bulging bodies, tuck fabric into crevices, and coil tentacles to your heart's content.  You will find the model offers some very useful constraints, such as a direct surface to sculpt against and exact dimensions for you to work with.  Many people sculpt freeform organic shapes (horns, claws, muscles) mostly on the model: taking just a ball of Green Stuff, squashing that in the roughly correct area, and sculpting directly onto the model.
# Wait for the Green Stuff to dry.
# Return to observe your handiwork.  If you want to add more detail, knead up another (usually smaller) chunk of Green Stuff and begin crafting the finer details on top of your previous, now-hardened work.

=== Plasticard ===